Saturday, June 28, 2014

"You know there isn't Renfe to the Canary Islands, right?"

Mid-March… do I hear the islands calling my name?

Yes I did! A group of seven Fulbrighters decided we were done with the not-so-cold-but-cold-enough winter weather in Madrid and headed off to Tenerife in the Canary Islands to enjoy a bit of island life. We rented an apartment that made us feel like we were on college spring break, adventured around the island, and enjoyed the lifestyle that was all too fleeting.

We got into the airport late on Thursday night after a 3 hour Ryanair ride across the Atlantic Ocean (a flight I wasn’t all to eager to repeat, but knew was necessary in order to get back to work on Monday).

Right before I went to the airport, I met one of my tutees, who asked me where I was traveling to that weekend. When I told him I was flying to the Canary Islands, he looked surprised, asking me how much my ticket had cost me. I told him it was just over €100 and he responded with, “Wow! That’s practically as cheap as Renfe!” I tossed him a concerned look and asked cautiously, “You do know there isn’t Renfe to the Canary Islands, right?” He shook his head and said, “I thought you could take Renfe anywhere in Spain though.” I tried to restrain my laughter and pulled up a map of the world, showing him that the Canary Islands was even further South than Morocco and no, there is not a train that goes a 3 hour flight distance through the Atlantic Ocean. Job security, my friends.

Anyway, once we made it to Tenerife, we took a taxi to the apartment, got checked in by a Russian grandmother, and then headed out into the city to see what our dinner options were. We were unimpressed by the surplus of karaoke bars, abundance of “We speak English!” signs, and excess of annoying waiters who were half-sweet-talking/half-harassing us with the hopes of getting some business during the off-season lull. So, we went simple and got pizza from a kebap shop, where the worker was so excited to get 7 people’s business at once that he treated us to our drinks.

On Friday morning, most of the group headed off to the beach, but Matt and I woke up earlier and headed North to check out La Laguna, a small colonial city that one of his co-teachers had recommended to him. We enjoyed wandering around the city, admiring the green hills of the north part of the island, the old churches, and the typical food.

The city had an interesting mix of colonial and Spanish design

Some intriguing vegetation

Just outside one of the churches

The ceiling of one of the churches

Ropa vieja, a typical dish of the Canary Islands

Matt is slightly obsessed with climbing towers, so we went to the oldest church to check out the view. When we arrived, we found that the worker had just taken a break. We considered walking around the desk and just heading up the stairs when the woman reappeared, took our €2, and warned us about the bells that go off every 15 minutes. We were intrigued by the bells and hung out at the top awhile waiting for them to ring, only to jump with surprise at the expected clanging that could have easily left my ears ringing for the entire rest of the day.

The tower

View from the top

When we got “home” our beach friends were nursing their sunburns and we began to make plans for dinner… an all-American cook-out in our small backyard. Sparks went flying (literally… we had some problems getting the coals to heat up until the boys poured some gasoline on them), but in the end we managed to sit down to a dinner of burgers, potatoes, asparagus, and salad. Then we played some Apples to Apples before we headed to sleep in preparation for our trip to the highest point in Spain (which is also an active volcano), El Teide, the next day.

 
While we prepared dinner, Joe took a few pictures for his future match.com profile

Rather than riding the bus along the coast as Matt and I had done the previous day, we headed up up up into the center of the island until we arrived at the active volcano. I didn’t expect going to the top of an active volcano to be such a common tourist attraction, but I figured with so many people doing it, there must not be a significant risk of dying from an eruption.

El Teide

We almost left Rebecca behind at the rest stop (only a 5 minute drive from the volcano, but still…) because she got stuck in a line for the bathroom. But for the second time in Spain (First time was in Santander, 2012), I pulled the half-in, half-out trick that bus drivers basically hate because they can’t leave until I move one way or another. Thankfully, Rebecca saw me moments later and started running so we could all make it to the volcano and up the gondola to a place where we could feel on top of the world.

Looking down

Fulbright Canary Islands 2014!

It’s me and the clouds

It was a great day trip! But we decided to make the day even better by heading over to the beach to watch the sunset.

An amateur sandcastle we saw along the way

A walk along a Canary boardwalk

Chilling on the beach

Jumping fail

We ate a good dinner right off the beach and headed back with our bellies full, all exhausted from the mountains and the sea and ready for sleep.

Sunday morning, Joe and I woke up early to catch the 9:30 AM bus that would take us from our city in the South to the airport in the North. Joe wanted to get back for his soccer game later that afternoon and I needed to get back for tutoring so we wanted to take an earlier flight. Joe had booked an afternoon flight without realizing it was from the airport on the opposite side of the island (about an hour away) but once he figured out a way to get there, I decided to go along.

Unfortunately, tired from the night before, I misread the bus schedule and didn’t realize that the 9:30 bus didn’t run on weekends. We got there a half an hour after the weekend bus left and got a bit nervous when we realized that the 10:30 bus wouldn’t get us there before the gates closed on our flight. OOPS.

We then assessed our two options. Take a bus to the southern airport and hope to catch the bus from the southern airport to the northern airport or take a bus to the center of Santa Cruz in the North and hope to catch another bus or grab a taxi from the center to the airport. Realizing our distance risk was slimmer by taking the bus to Santa Cruz, we boarded and sat anxiously, calculating the amount of time we would have to get from the center city to the airport and trying to decide whether we should go to the airport via bus or taxi.

When we arrived in Santa Cruz, we decided we couldn’t take the bus unless the bus was leaving immediately. Lucky for us (?), when we pulled in, there was a bus boarding. We asked the bus driver how long it would take us to get to the airport and when he said 15 minutes, we decided that since it was a small airport, we could probably take the 15 minute bus ride, get our passport stamp from the Ryanair desk, go through security, and make it to our gate before our gate closed in 35 minutes.

We bought bus tickets, sat down, and fidgeted anxiously as the bus driver let person after person put their luggage in the luggage hold and dawdle to their seats. Five minutes later, with everyone finally on the bus, we left. As we made it through the city, Joe and I cursed every old woman who shuffled across the crosswalk and every red light that slowed down our trip. When we stopped at the train station and saw another 15 people waiting to board, I almost hopped off the bus and grabbed a taxi… but there were no taxis. “We probably should’ve taken a taxi. I never do this. It just seemed like a good idea to save the 20-something euros that it would have cost us. I mean it seemed like we would have enough time. Gosh, we’re Fulbrighters and can’t even catch a plane to get back to school on Monday. We’re going to have to call Manuel….”

I pulled out my phone and started tracking our trip… we were 2 kilometers away and still had 15 minutes until the doors closed. Joe and I selflessly gave up our seats to an older couple so we could stand at the door and when we arrived at the airport we sprinted through the doors, thrust our passports and tickets at the Ryanair worker (who was way too chipper for our current state of emergency), and began to tear off our belts and shoes as we ran to security. The security workers were confused by our certainly un-Spanish rush and when we finally got through and identified our gate, we laughed uncontrollably with happiness that there was still an entire line of people waiting to board. We high-fived, bought some water to compensate for all of our stress-sweat, and recounted the most stressful moments of the journey before informing the rest of the group that we had in fact made it.

Co-worker and fellow risk-taker

We lived happily ever after and the plane left 30 minutes late.

Much love from Spain,
Amber

Thursday, June 26, 2014

Murcia: My last autonomous community and Spain's best kept secret

My last weekend in Spain was spent finishing up my goal of visiting all 17 autonomous communities of Spain. (Granted, the blog is still missing updates on both the Canary Islands and Navarra, but I promise I did visit them all!) Once life calms down a bit (if life calms down a bit?), I’ll update you on my experiences in Tenerife and in Pamplona. But for now, let me tell you about Spain’s hidden gem: MURCIA.

Two weeks ago I played jeopardy with my students for our last class together. The 500 point answer for “Amber in Spain” was, “the only autonomous community in Spain Amber has yet to visit” and the correspnding question was, “What is Murcia?” Few students got it right on the first try and one class of students failed to answer correctly at all, instead realizing they had forgotten that Murcia even existed. When I gave them the answer, they reacted with, “¡Ayyyyyyy! ¡Pero es que no hay ni puta alma en Murcia!” (This translates to: “Ahhhhh... but there isn’t even a f*cking soul in Murcia!” Excuse my French. I mean, Spanish… swear words have much less weight - if any weight at all - in Spanish culture.)

My friend Carmen told me not to go… it wouldn’t be worth it to miss out on my last weekend in Madrid and didn’t I want to leave something to come back to? No Spaniard (except for the ones form Murcia) said a single positive thing about the place until I told them I was going to the beach. Then they halfheartedly conceded, saying it couldn’t be too bad to go to the beach for a few days.

Boy, were they wrong. Perhaps it helped that my expectations were EXTREMELY low, but honestly, Cartagena blew me away. I’d like to promote Spain’s well-kept secret, hidden between the Costa del Sol of Andalusia and the the Costa Blanca of Valencia.

Our hotel alone was enough to want me to stay forever. I got into Cartagena earlier than Erica on Friday, giving me time to hang out in the city… or in the hotel room. The slightly overcast, windy weather kept me from wanting to sit on a terrace all afternoon; so, after lunch and a walk around the city, I headed back to the hotel, plugged in my laptop, and started blogging away in a big comfy chair situated right in front of the balcony.

The best fried eggplant I have ever had

A sculpture giving tribute to the victims of terrorism

School’s out for the summer!

I didn’t even have to leave my room to enjoy the smell of the sea and a view of the port!

Or turn around and check out the main plaza

On Saturday, Erica and I headed out to La Manga (The Sleeve), a peninsula about 30 minutes away from Cartagena where we could enjoy both the Mediterranean Sea and the Mar Menor (Minor Sea) by walking just 8 minutes across the peninsula.

Along the way we met a young woman from Arizona who had been living in Murcia for 4 years. Politely we managed to ask, “Uhhh… why?” and she fondly recounted her summers with a family friend who is from Murcia which lead from one thing to another and ended with her current state of being 5 months pregnant with her and her Murcian husband’s little boy.

She married into Murcia but she loves it like home, talking about how there is no need to go on vacation because they have paradise right around the corner. She also know the bus stops like home, which was helpful for us since not a single bus stop was labeled on the stops or on the map.

After we successfully got off the bus, we first checked out the Mediterranean Sea and enjoyed the free entertainment of watching a group of young Spaniards attempt to throw a football… the first people I have ever seen throw a football in public worse than me.

Walking along the beach

There’s nothing like beach hair!

After a few hours on beach, we left in search of food and were happy to find that southern prices were indeed as low as remembered them. €7.50 each for an entire menú!

Mmmmmmmmm

With our tummies full, we headed back to the beach for our siesta… but this time we walked 5 minutes West and settled down on the Mar Menor.

An older couple going for a stroll

Looking at mainland Murcia

Reading… typical.

We soaked up as many rays as we could until our thirst got to us and we headed out for a Coca-Cola at one of the restaurants right off the beach. Then, around 18:40, we headed to the bus stop to catch the 19:00 bus. The non-existent 19:00 bus. We waited and wondered and double checked our map and doubted whether or not the bus would stop at all of the stops or only the one at the end of the peninsula. Erica decided to check with a store clerk to see if we were at an acceptable stop and after confirming we were, we realized that there was a faded dot next to the 19:00 bus. “What does that mean?” I asked and then finally saw the legend that this little dot meant “Sólo domingos” (Only Sundays). Oops.

We had almost an hour to kill until the next bus so we sat down and had a granizado (a slushy that, in Spain, is consumed as much, if not more, by adults as by children) while I wrote out my last Spanish postcards.

Lemon slushy!

When we finally made it back into Cartagena, we showered, rejoiced in our lack of sunburns (Thank you, SPF 50!) and headed out in search of tapas. The restaurant recommended to us by our Arizonan friend was closed but by the number of people crowded around the bar down the street, we figured we couldn’t go wrong. And we didn’t. Tapas of ensaladilla rusa (Spain’s potato salad), solomillo al chimichurri (pork loin with tomato pepper sauce), berenjena rellena (stuffed eggplant), mini-hamburguesa (You can figure this one out), and pollo al curry (Hint: pollo = chicken) filled us up and allowed us to enjoy the delicious gastronomy of the South for the low dinner price of €15… total. Erica and I considered moving.

Good food is nothing without good conversation but we had that as well… with the Murcian couple who was standing next to us at the bar. We started off talking about the bar’s food and continued on to conversations about what we were doing in Spain, our thoughts about Murcia, and more conversation about Spain’s gastronomical experiences. It wasn’t the first, though it might be the last time (at least for a while) that a Spaniard told me, “Se comen muy bien allí” (They eat very well there). Through conversation with them I discovered I had somehow missed out (?) on trying sangre frita (fried blood), the woman’s favorite food as a child. I’ll consider adding it to the to-do list for my next visit.

On Sunday morning, Erica and I woke up and headed down for our second day of the breakfast buffet (complete with fresh ginger-carrot-pear juice, a yogurt bar with pumpkin seeds and papaya chunks, ensaimadas, jamón serrano and Manchego cheese) before checking out the sights in the city of Cartagena.

First, we headed over to the Roman Theater, one of the best preserved Roman theaters in the world.

From the top

Cheese it!

Then we walked to the Roman forum and an old Roman house, which the woman at the Roman theater talked us into visiting because of the €9 student deal for all three. It was totally worth it, since we happened upon an hour long tour through the Roman Forum with an engaging guide. The Roman house on the other hand (described as “preciosa” by the woman working at the Roman theater), was a short visit… within 5 minutes we had entered, looked at the foot tall brick walls showing us the layout of the house, appreciated the oldness of the bricks we were surrounded by, and left. It made us even more grateful for the guide at the forum.

Part of one of the walls that was reconstructed by the archeologists in the Forum

The pieces of their next puzzle

After we finished our sightseeing, we walked around the city and noticed the huge difference between the main streets and the run-down buildings just off the beaten path. There was a beauty in the mix of old and new, though the old woman who saw me taking a picture of one of the run-down buildings was not amused.

Pretty old wire balconies mixed with scaffolding

As I took the picture, she stood behind me and scolded me for taking a picture of “an edificio tan feo… ¡hay muchos otros que son más bonitos justo allí!” (“such an ugly building… there are many other buildings that are much prettier right there!).

We also saw quite a few mini alters and floats waiting to be put to use later in the afternoon.

I suppose it is too heavy and too obvious to run off with

Right off Calle Mayor

Then, just before we left, we enjoyed one more delicious meal amidst the smell of the sea.

Tomato, boquerones, cheese, olives and pepper salad

Stuffed mushrooms

Paella

As you may have guessed from the photos, Murcia passed my important test. Se comen muy bien allí.

Well Spain, it’s been great getting to know you. Even up to my last journeys, you haven’t disappointed me. I’m going to miss every last bit of you.

Much love,
Amber