... and enjoyed three days of China surprises and China adventures!
Katherine realized part way into our trip that our group sounded like the beginning of a bad joke. And at times, our trip seemed like a bad joke. Attractions were closed to the general public, I wasn't allowed to stay in the hotel we booked, and entire streets (ones that we had intended to use) were blocked off by police. But as we faced unexpected challenges, we were blessed with unnecessary kindnesses that brought the three of us together and reminded us to be thankful to "him who is able to do immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine."
China surprise #1: I couldn't stay at the hotel.
We'll just say that a series of clerical issues made it impossible for me to stay in the hotel we had booked. After everyone else had checked in successfully, I found myself on the street, waiting for my friends and wondering where I was going to sleep that night. Calls were made to our company and friends around the city, inquiring about extra beds and hotel reservations. Being that it was a nationwide holiday, accommodations everywhere were booked, as well as train tickets, seemingly leaving me in a Catch-22 with nowhere to turn. Thankfully, He provides.
Around 4 PM we sat down to an extremely belated lunch in an effort to deal with our grumbling stomachs. We discussed plans and Krista called back and forth with a few company staff members. Halfway through lunch, it was settled. The head of the company China-side is currently in America with his family and his apartment was available. It was decided that the other two girls would check out of the hotel and we would all stay in this company director's personal apartment. Through I am still getting acquainted with the company culture and didn't immediately recognize the individual's name, from the others' responses, I could tell he was a well-known and respected leader in our company community. And he personally was serving me, one of the youngest and newest staff members on the entire team, "one of the least of these."
Earlier in the afternoon, I had envisioned myself sleeping in a police station or on an airport floor. Instead I ended up lounging on the company director's couch.
One thing is for sure: This company has a pretty cool culture going on.
China surprise #2: The Summer Palace was closed to the general public.
On Wednesday morning, we arrived to the Summer Palace eager to make up for the time we lost due to the hotel fiasco. What we didn't expect was for the palace to be closed to anyone who didn't have a "special ticket."
When we arrived, we could sense something was wrong, but we couldn't figure out what was going on. People were walking away shaking their heads, the ticket offices seemed to be vacant, and guards stood all around the entrance. We walked around trying to find someone who spoke English with little success. Finally, I realized I knew a way to find someone who spoke English. I walked right up to the guards and attempted to enter, figuring if they wanted me to stop, they would figure out how to tell me to do so. It worked, and within a few seconds, a young female guard told me that the palace was closed unless I had a special ticket. I asked her if I could get the special ticket and she shook her head no with an amused smile and told me to come back tomorrow.
China adventure #1: We got into the Summer Palace!
Just inside the entrance gate
For a good few minutes, it seemed like Beijing was going to be a long series of disappointments. But as we stood dejected in front of the gate, someone handed Krista a single "special ticket" and we felt a glimmer of hope. While waiting on the boys to arrive, we considered the possibility of getting 4 more tickets. Krista called them and we decided to try; after all, we were given "immeasurably more than all we ask or imagine" the previous night. The three of us spread out along the entrance and just stood there. We shared our knowledge with any other confused tourists, but mostly we just stood there, waiting for someone to hand us four more tickets.
Within 10 minutes, Katherine came over to my spot. I was in the middle of a conversation with a scalper who looked at me like I was crazy when I told him that I was waiting for someone to give me four tickets for free. "We've been approached" was all she said.
A half hour later, the boys arrived and the five of us walked into the Summer Palace without paying a penny. Though I had been standing outside in the cold for the past two hours due to an unforeseen set-back, I skipped through the gate like I had just one the lottery.
He provides unnecessary gifts, just to see us smile.
First thing, we rented a paddle boat to get a thorough look at the grounds from the lake.
Jake and I paddling away
We docked ourselves to try to get a picture on one of the main bridges, but it didn't go so well on our first try.
Oops! The gate was closed. And it was definitely not sturdy enough to get around while hanging over the water.
But Andy figured out Plan B; we used the boat as a bridge to hop onto the rocky shore. Soon we were ready for our photo shoot.
Andy ventured back out onto the lake to be our photographer.
After an hour of paddling, we returned the boat and set out to explore the insides of the palace buildings.
Snack break! An odd waffle wrapped Chinese hot dog. Andy ate the whole thing, but Jake ended up ditching the mystery meat and eating only the waffle-like substance.
The main archway in front of the palace
A covered walkway
At the top of the palace, overlooking the lake
We enjoyed the sights, but the rain soon fell harder and our late start meant that we were once again overdue for lunch. We squeezed in a few more pictures on our way out and then headed to Home Plate BBQ, a southern restaurant in the city, so that the many southerners in the group could enjoy a taste of home.
One of the palace workers sweeping the water off the walkways
China adventure #2: The Southerners sought out comfort food.
By the time we left the palace and got to the metro, we were hungry. Two hours later, when we were wandering around a neighborhood still unable to find the southern BBQ restaurant, we were desperate for food. We tried to stay optimistic and positive, but as our stomachs twisted into themselves, we discussed the other options and decided to abandon ship and eat at the Arabic restaurant we passed. Disappointed with the fruitless journey, we trudged to the end of the restaurant row no longer paying attention to our surroundings. Then I looked up and squealed, "THIS IS IT!!!" It took a moment for the reality to sink in, but within 30 seconds we were barging through the doors like we owned the place, excitedly ordering fried okra, cheese fries, and pork BBQ. It was pretty darn delicious.
China adventure #3: The acrobats performed stunts that made us feel like our own lives were in danger. Possibly because they were.
On Wednesday night, Katherine, Krista, and I went to an acrobats show that came highly recommended by co-workers and Trip Advisor reviewees. We ordered discount seats ahead of time somewhere in the front four rows since they were the cheapest seats. We didn't realize that they were cheaper because our lives were literally in danger.
Okay, that probably sounds a bit dramatic. But when you have acrobats rapidly changing positions while swinging on a rope 10 feet above your head, you can't stay 100% calm. When the female dropped from the male's arms to his ankles directly above me, my stomach dropped to my own ankles. When she moved into a split and let go of the rope, I couldn't help but process the fact that if something went wrong, she would be coming right down into my lap... or onto my head.
It's possible (probable... okay, definite) that I shreiked multiple times. But as I looked at the girl next to me who had her face covered with her scarf, I realized I wasn't the only one. I whispered to Krista, "I'm trying to enjoy it but I am so anxious that I don't know if I'm having fun anymore." She responded, "Welcome to China."
China surprise #3: The government closed off major roads to pedestrians for the public holiday.
After the acrobat show, we tried to go to the hotel we had planned to stay at because we knew we could book a trip to the Great Wall there. Finding a reputable company can be a bit of a challenge and one of our co-workers had gone on that particular trip, so we had hoped to follow her suggestion.
However, after 25 minutes of trudging through the rain while being redirected by police officers, we threw in the towel. The hour trip "home" was spent trying to figure out a way to get to the Great Wall.
China adventure #4: We went to the Great Wall!
I woke up at 6 AM to research and by 7 AM we were making calls. We called multiple drivers from multiple companies. Krista and Katherine tried to call a Chinese driver and communicate our request to him. We researched how to take public transport there and attempted to prepare ourselves for the challenge of haggling with a local who would take us from the nearby town to the Great Wall.
And then, a Chinese acquaintance got through to one of the Chinese drivers. After researching and calling for over two hours, we had a plan. We were going to the Great Wall!
The drive was an hour and a half and it went very smoothly with our personal driver. By 11 AM, we were on a ski lift on our way up the mountains.
Looking at the mountains behind us on the way up
Unbelievable
Looking back on it, it's finally sinking in that I went to the Great Wall of China!
We walked around the wall for about 2 hours, taking pictures and pondering the reality of the situation. One of my favorite reflections came from Katherine, who said, "It's so interesting that a wall that was built to keep people out now brings people together from all over the world."
As I consider my visits to the Great Wall as well as the Berlin wall and Auschwitz, I realize how true that is. So much energy is spent dividing people, putting people into different "camps" or schools of thought and clarifying the differences between belief systems or cultures instead of uniting for a greater good. As I move forward here in China and get accustomed to the Southern invasion of our school (every other new staff member is from the deep South), a new school and company culture, and the still-bewildering Chinese culture, I hope to spend a respectable amount of time and energy focusing on what brings us together.
A life-directing faith.
A desire to serve others.
A passion for education.
A willingness to step out into the unknown.
And a love for joy and laughter. Like when you ride down from the Great Wall on a toboggan.
WHEEEEEEEEEEEE!
China adventure #5: Food in China may very well never bore me.
Thursday night, we headed out to try Peking duck. Each city or region in China is known to have a specialty, which friends normally gift to one another when they travel. We could have bought a full dried Peking duck in a plastic bag to take bring back with us, but instead we decided we would eat it at a restaurant.
Peking duck and all the fixings
After dinner, we headed out to explore the night market, where we found all sorts of after-dinner snacks... spiders, centipedes, 6-inch worms, starfish, live scorpions, silk worms, galore! (Side note: The silk worms are actually normal. I noticed the other day that I can buy them at my produce shop.)
Can you eat the whole thing? I'm not sure...
These scropions were STILL MOVING on the stick.
Chinese adventure #6: I spent a morning creeping on locals.
When we went to the Temple of Heaven on Friday morning, I was surprised to find that many locals had entered just to enjoy the park aspect of the attraction. While Krista and Katherine went ahead to look at the buildings, I began, for the first time in China, to intently watch the people.
Visitors joined in whole-heartedly with an elderly choir. I couldn't understand what they were singing, but I presume they were patriotic anthems since it was National Week.
Playing a version of hacky sack that requires extreme flexibility
Posing in front of a juniper tree that looks like it has dragons crawling up its trunk
China: the country where checkers is a spectator sport
Watching as a bride takes pre-wedding photos
A daddy-daughter moment
Though I will admit my favorite part of the morning consisted of attempting to capture China life, I did also enjoy seeing the different monuments inside the park.
The marble walkways that surround the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (祈年殿)
This building is not the original, since the original burnt down after being struck by lightning in 1889. Nevertheless, the 38 meter tall wooden building with no nails is quite the sight to see. The colors and shape demand attention, and attention it gets. Getting up to the door to see inside could be an Olympic sport... jabs were being thrown! I think I only got a good look (though no good picture) because I boxed out a grandma.
The 70 year-old door
One of the less grand, but more interesting sights was the 70 year-old door. This door was constructed in an effort to provide an easier route to the Imperial Hall of Heaven for Emperor Qianlong when he turned 70 years old. The emperor was grateful for the shortcut, but was worried that future generations would get lazy and stop taking the traditional route. Thus, Qianlong issued a decree that said that one had to be 70 years old in order to use it. However, no other emperor of the dynasty reached that age so Qianlong was the only one to ever use it.
China adventure #7: In my first attempt to barter, I was physically forced into making a purchase.
Fried jiaozi, the sustenance I needed to endure an afternoon of full-contact bargaining
Amber enters the Hongqiao market and begins to peruse one of the booths. A cute little bowl that seems to be the perfect size for a tea bag catches her eye. The saleswoman notices, and pounces.
Saleswoman: You like?
Amber: Yeah, it's nice.
Saleswoman: You buy. I give you good price.
Amber: Hmmmm... how much is it?
Saleswoman: How many you buy?
Amber: I don't know. Uh, two?
Saleswoman: Okay. Two... normally it is (types into calculator and show it to Amber) 300 kuai. But special price for you... (types into calculator again) 250 kuai.
Amber: (Translating to dollars... $42ish) Noooo....
Saleswoman: (Takes the calculator again) Okay, 180.
Amber: ($30ish)... Nah. (Begins to walk away)
Saleswoman: Okay, how much you pay? (Hands Amber the calculator)
Amber: (Warily looks at the calculator.)
Saleswoman: You choose the price. (Pushes it towards Amber)
Amber: Uhhhh...
Saleswoman: Come on, you choose. How much you pay?
Amber: (Reluctantly punches numbers into the calculator) 90 kuai?
Saleswoman: 150?
Amber: No.
Saleswoman: 120.
Amber: (Shakes head)
Saleswoman: Okay okay. 90 kuai. You buy. (Begins to wrap them up)
Amber: Wait wait, I don't know if I want them.
Saleswoman: No, you buy. You say 90 kuai.
Amber: But I don't know if I want them. I just wanted to know how much they were.
Saleswoman: No, you buy! I say 300, you say no. I say 180, you say no. You say 90, I say 150, you say 90, I say 120, you say 90, I say okay. You buy.
Amber: I know what I said but I just got here! I don't even know if I want them. I'll come back if I want them.
Saleswoman: No, no, no! You say 90, I say 150, you say 90, I say 120, you say 90, I say okay. YOU BUY.
(Krista hears the shouting and approaches, trying to figure out what's going on)
Saleswoman: I say 300, she say no. I say 180, she say no. She say 90, I say 150, she say 90, I say 120, she say 90, I say okay. SHE BUY.
(While she's recounting this to Krista, Amber tries to sneak away around the corner. She's almost out of the booth when she feels the woman grab her arm and wail...)
Saleswoman: You barter! You buy! You barter! You buy!
Amber: I just got here! I just wanted to know how much it was!
Saleswoman: (Gripping Amber's arm tighter) 80 kuai!
Amber: No, I definitely don't want it now!
Saleswoman: (Beginning to dig her fingers into Amber's arm and through the loops of her knit sweater, pulling her back into the booth) 70 kuai!
Amber: (Starting to wonder if she will get her arm back in one piece) Let me GO!
Saleswoman: 50 kuai! YOU BUY!
Amber: (No longer knowing what to do) FINE! But get off of me!
I'm sure you could guess that I didn't get my change for my 100 kuai bill back without a fight either. When I finally walked out of the booth I clutched two small overpriced bowls and only scraps of self-assurance in my bartering ability. I bought only one mug for the rest of the afternoon and paid almost the original asking price, 25 kuai, since I didn't know if my sweater or soul could take much more.
Looks like in addition to learning Chinese tones and characters and cultural norms and school programs and standards, I have to take a few lessons in how to go shopping. Should've taken a few lessons from Poppy before heading over here!
All in all though... Beijing was a success. I loved getting to explore China; it was the break and adventure I needed after an overwhelming transition. I missed a few major attractions (The Forbidden City, Tiananmen's Square, the silk market), but I'm okay with that because it will give me something to see when I go again in March with Jackie and Auntie Mimi!
And the adventures continue...
Much love from China,
Amber
