Sunday, June 23, 2013

San Sebastián

Remember the days I actually updated my blog in a timely fashion? Oh, those were the glory days...

Lucky for me, there weren't too many things to remember about our trip to San Sebastián and the things that needed to be remembered will not easily be forgotten. Why's that? Well, my friends, it's because that despite our efforts to enjoy the beach in San Sebastián (thus prompting us to wait until JUNE to visit even though it we established that we wanted to go in September), we never made it there. Because...

the
weather
was
crappy.

How crappy? Well besides the 15 minute walk from the train station to our hostel,

it
rained
every
minute.

Not a Madrid rain, where everyone hides inside because its drizzling for 5 minutes. We are talking buckets. It was the kind of rain that got everything we brought wet and gave our room a nice musty smell because it was below 70° and nothing was drying. Napala even went so far as to ask the hostel to turn on the heat in our room... with no luck.

Speaking of our hostel... where should I start talking about this gem? Perhaps with the welcome, which we received on the corner of a street from an old man who walked out of a cafe, asked us where we were going, showed us a key with "Olga" written in chicken scratch on the label, and then led us to an unmarked apartment building. Believe me, my warning signals were going off and I was noting escape routes. We entered an unlabeled apartment with a less than pleasant smell and it wasn't until I saw an award for "Olga's place" from Hostelworld on the wall that I began to take this guy with any note of seriousness. (I can't imagine what the award was for... I should've looked closer.)

This was just the beginning of a weekend of confusion about who worked at the hostel (the first man we met, yes; Olga, yes; the cleaning lady; yes... still not sure about the others...), who lived there (Victor, the Italian, was legit living there even though his roommate changed every few days), and who was just passing through (this is also still undetermined since some people seemed to have been there awhile and didn't look like they were moving on anytime soon). But the fact that we were confused is proof of some guests' hospitality, in particular the surfer who woke up his sleeping friend to give us a map and a basic description of the layout of the city. (We figured out that he didn't work there... but I guess nobody who works at Olga's Place was there and he thought it was worth interrupting his friend's REM sleep to point out some restaurants?) Then two days into the trip, we found out that three other Fulbrighters who we were trying to meet up with were staying in the other apartment (right next to ours) that belonged to the hostel. It's a story to tell at least.

So what did we do? We ate, obviously. Which worked out well since it was Keler Pintxo Week and they had special pintxos combinations that you could get for 10€ at a bunch of really cool restaurants. Here are photos of just a few...

Pulpo a la plancha (Grilled octopus)

An assortment of pintxos

Seafood stuffed red pepper

Shrimp/veggie kebob

The edible cut-out (Well... the edible part is debatable. We ate it but anyhow.) should give it away that this is conejo (rabbit)!

Risotto with something in its own tinto (ink)

Pig's ear, I do believe

Another surtido (assortment) of pintxos
 
Well we had to have some sort of dessert.
Chocolate deliciousness with applesauce

So, the fact that these are only about half of the food pictures that I have from 3 days should tell you something. But you have to remember that these are all very small dishes, and we split them all between 3 people. So, taking into account that I only took 2 bites of everything pictured above, don't expect me to be obese when you see me.

Our second day there, we tried to do a 3 hour hike suggested to us by another Fulbrighter who was in San Sebastián a few weeks before us. However, the hike consisted of us attempting to do the Camino de Santaigo backwards, which is by no means a good idea. The camino consists of following arrows that mark the path. However, when you are walking backwards and your path suddenly diverges into three paths, it's a little difficult to know where to go. People who were already on the camino, going the correct direction, would know to continue in the same direction and hardly notice the merging paths. However, when you are doing it backwards, you have no idea which of the three paths is the right one. (Okay, hopefully you can pick out which is the right one, but it's difficult to know which one is the correct one.) This predicament came accompanied by a downpour that caused Meg's sunscreen to run into her eyes, our sneakers to become mini boats, and me to start wearing my rain coat over my backpack instead of my body in an effort to protect my camera that was inside. So perhaps it was lucky that we picked the wrong path and ended up, an hour after starting, right where we started.

Nevertheless, even with the rain that plagued our every move, I could tell why everyone thinks San Sebastián is so beautiful. I loved being so close to the water; I even endured the rain for a run along the beach on Sunday morning. And after a year of travels (and amidst preparations for a busy summer), it was a welcoming city to spend a relaxing weekend, eating, drinking, and chatting with friends. 

Crossing the bridge into old town

Plaza de la Constitución

La bahía de la concha

  The gang by the river outside the train station 
(Of course, it wasn't raining when we were about to get on the train)

Much love,
Amber

Friday, May 17, 2013

9 down, 8 Autonomous Communities to go

When I found out my Fulbright grant was renewed for the coming year, I was beyond ecstatic. Although I was almost 100% sure that I would be staying with the auxiliares program anyway, it was exciting to know that I would be able to be involved in the Global Classrooms program again and would be connected with all the surely awesome Fulbrighters coming in.

I told my friends and family and everyone quickly offered their congratuations. It was my Uncle Jack who really made me think about what the renewal meant. In his congratulations e-mail he wrote, "Besides minor things like another year to experience,  to learn and to explore, another year to deepen understanding of culture(s) and language(s), another year to strengthen friendships and to make new friends, besides the travel stipend for coming home, and besides the power (and coolness) of having the SECOND Fulbright year on what's shaping up to be one very impressive résumé ---------- what are your hopes for the second year?"

That's when I realized I really hadn't planned on doing anything more than the "minor things" he had mentioned. But when I was writing my blog/letter to Spain, I got to thinking. After two years here, will I really be able to say I know Spain? What can I do better to understand the country as a whole? And then it hit me. The autonomous communities.

There are 17 autonomous communities in Spain. The development of the autonomous communities, as well as how they are viewed today, is a bit complicated. Some still consider themselves to be communities (go figure!), while others consider themselves regions, and still others consider themselves to be nationalities of Spain. (Spain used to be considered a nation of nations.) The communities vary in ways such as government type, managing of finances, and official languages (though all include Spanish).

So by the end of this coming grant year, I've made a goal: to get to all 17 autonomous communities of Spain. (I told a teacher this and she then said, "You know there are 57 provinces..."). Rather than traveling all over Europe, pretending like 3 days in a city is enough time to really understand the country, I'm going to focus myself a little more. I've had a wonderful time seeing different places this year and I wouldn't take back any of my travel adventures, but it's overwhelming to feel like I have to visit the whole continent. Sometimes there is such pressure to "aprovechar" (take advantage of) being in Europe that I feel like I have to see everything while I'm here. I forget that I am only 23 years old and can continue to explore the world after my Fulbright grant ends. This goal is a bit more manageable, and a bit more meaningful for my time here. And it will definitely help my language abilities, since I'll be speaking Spanish during my travels as well.

So here's the list (with pictures, per usual) of where I've hit and where I plan on going...

1. Andalucía (Capital: Sevilla, Provincias: Almería, Cádiz, Córdoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaén, Málaga, Sevilla)

Boats in the harbor of Cádiz (2010)

 Inside the Mezquita in Córdoba (2010)

 View of the Alhambra from the Generalife in Granada (2010)

Along the harbor in Málaga (2013)

 
La Catedral in Sevilla (2010)

2. Aragón (Capital: Zaragoza, Provincias: Huesca, Teruel, Zaragoza)

Plaza in Zaragoza (2013)

3. Principado de Asturias (Capital: Oviedo, Provincias: Aturias)

4. Islas Baleares (Capital: Palma de Mallorca; Provincias: Islas Baleares)

5. Canarias (Capital: Las Palmas de Gran Canaria and Santa Cruz de Tenerife (shared); Provincias: Las Palmas and Santa Cruz de Tenerife)

6. Cantabria (Capital: Santander, Provincias: Cantabria)

 
The bay of Santander (2012)

7. Castilla-La Mancha (Capital: Toledo, Provincias: Albacete, Ciudad Real, Cuenca, Guadalajara, Toledo)

8. Castilla y León (Capital: Valladolid, Provincias: Ávila, Burgos, León, Palencia, Salamanca, Segovia, Soria, Valladolid, Zamora)

Medieval city walls in Ávila (2008)

La Plaza Mayor in Salamanca (2008)

 Aqueducts in Segovia (2008)

9. Cataluña  (Capital: Barcelona, Provincias: Barcelona, Gerona, Lérida, Tarragona)

 La Sagrada Familia in Barcelona (2010)
 
10. Valencia (Capital: Valencia, Provincias: Alicante, Castellón, Valencia)

City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia (2012)

11. Extremadura (Capital: Mérida, Provincias: Badajoz, Cáceres)

12. Galicia (Capital: Santiago de Compostela, Provincias: La Coruña, Lugo, Orense, Pontevedra)

13. La Rioja (Capital: Logroño, Provincias: La Rioja)

 On the camino leaving Logroño (2012)

14. Comunidad de Madrid (Capital: Madrid, Provincias: Madrid)

 In Retiro Park in Madrid (2012)

15. Comunidad Foral de Navarra (Capital: Pamplona, Provincias: Navarra)

16. País Vasco (Capital: Vitoria, Provincias: Álava, Guipúzcao, Vizcaya)

 The Guggenheim in Bilbao (2013)

17. Región de Murcia (Capital: Murcia, Provincias: Región de Murcia)

So, my friends, that's my plan.  It might take some convincing to find travel buddies to some of the less exciting regions (I doubt I'll struggle with company going to the Canary Islands...), but I'm determined to do it. If you want to come visit me and accompany on one of my Autonomous Community visits, I won't be opposed :) Otherwise, maybe I should start hitting up Spanish friends and friends of friends and friends of friends of friends to get local tour guides! Vamos a ver...
Much love,
Amber

Thursday, May 16, 2013

Madrid happenings: Adventures "at home"

In my last post, I mentioned that Madrid continues to impress me with the amount of things there are to do. Here's a glimpse of how I've been spending my time in Madrid recently...

Rock 'n' Roll 10K

A number of Fulbrighters signed up for Madrid's Rock 'n' Roll races in the end of April. One did the full marathon, one did the half marathon, and the rest of us did the 10K.

Many people were impressed with our enthusiasm for running, but to be honest, we focused more on the social aspects than the training aspects. We planned a pasta party dinner, ordered coordinating Fulbright tank tops (which we then had to wear with long sleeve shirts to keep from freezing), and enjoyed a lunch together afterwards at Casa Mingo.

There were over 26,000 people running in the race, which made it really cool to be a part of. It brought me back to my memories of my first race in Sevilla in 2010, la Carrera Nocturna del Guadalquivir. On the other hand, the early morning time (9 AM), meant there were very few spectators. But we passed a few bands along the way and I ran with one of the other Fulbrighters for the first 20 minutes so things stayed interesting. Overall, I'd say it was a success!

 
A few of us repping our numbers and Fulbright tanks on race morning

Real Madrid game

For those of you who have been following my blog for a while, you may remember how Napala and I cooked Thanksgiving dinner for all Dan's Spanish Camp Kawanhee friends. That was our first real interaction with the Kawanhee boys, but the positive experiences have continued since then. Before Christmas, we were treated to dinner at one of the guy's dad's retaurants. And last week, one of the guys lent us his family's center field season passes. Not too shabby.

However, we had more people than we had season passes. Thus, for the first half, Dan and I sat in the 25€ nose-bleed seats.

With my zoom lens, those seats got me pictures like this:

 
¡Goooooooooooooooooooool!

Then we moved down and I got shots like this:

Oh hey, Ronaldo

 A fan in front of us

The "intimidating" security guards preparing to keep fans from rushing the field

 Sierra, Jordan, Napala, Dan, and I

San Isidro

As many of you have probably noticed, I've been catching up on blog posts, facebook picture uploads, and e-mails in the past few days. That's because today I did not have classes. I know, I know... you're probably thinking: another day off? Well it was the patron saint of Madrid's day, so of course, the city had to shut down. (To clarify, this holiday was only for the city of Madrid. We celebrated the Comunidad of Madrid during the May puente.)

Although today is the official holiday, San Isidro is drawn out for a 10 day festival where they have prestigious bull fights (which I did not attend), eat typical sweets, and dress up in the traditional costumes of Madrid. So to celebrate, Napala, Dan, and I used our day off to head over to the Pradera (in El Parque de San Isidro), where you can find the shrine of the saint and every important aspect of the festivities.

First of all, the typical sweets. Everyone eats rosquillas, which are aniseed flavored donut/cookie treats. The non-iced ones are called "tontas" (stupid ones) and the iced ones are called "listas" (smart ones). The smart ones looked more exciting so we tried a variety of them...

Cherry, lemon, and chocolate rosquillas

For lunch, we considered going here...

So glad we have Oscar Mayer to be proud of

Or here...

Using the crisis to their marketing advantage...

But instead we ate here...

  For just 4€ we enjoyed some pollo asado, patatas, and pimiento... quite the deal!

After lunch, my opportunity arrived to photograph the madrileños dressed up in the typical costumes...

A few chulapas posing for the camera. ¡Patatas!

 The chulapos were pretty good back up singers

Last but not least, no fair-type festivity is complete without games! But of course, the Spanish put their own twist on the prize...

 Who wouldn't want to win a leg of jamón?

After writing so many blog posts about my travels around Europe, I've found I've neglected Madrid a bit. Hopefully this gave you a glimpse of what I'm doing during my time "at home"!

Much love,
Amber

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Falling in love again is an emotionally taxing walk in the park

When I first got to Spain, I was a bit disappointed. The sky of Madrid didn't have the deep blueness of Sevilla; the three lane, one direction, roads didn't compare with the streets where a person had to plaster oneself up against the wall in order to make room for an economy car; nobody spoke with the lisp that had taken me so long to conquer understanding. I had spent almost two years waiting to return to Spain, only to find that it was the city of Sevilla I truly missed.

But during Fulbright orientation, I talked to one of the Fulbrighters from the year before (Ryan) who had been living in Sevilla and he told me something I haven't forgotten. He said that Sevilla is like your first love: everything is perfect, you're crazy about it, and you can't help but remember it with rose colored glasses. On the other hand, he said, Madrid is more like the guy you marry. No, the city isn't breathtakingly gorgeous or particularly unique on the surface, but it is has many hidden qualities. Madrid is a living, breathing, city, unlike the static memory of Sevilla. There are always things to do and it continues to surprise me with it's vast number of streets to explore, restaurants to try, and cultural events to experience.

From a book written in the 1960s...

Ryan's description of Sevilla/Madrid stuck with me over the past 9 months. I intentionally tried to forget about Sevilla and appreciate all that Madrid had to offer. I knew, after all, that it made more sense to spend a year living in a bigger city… Sevilla would have just been more of the same.

By the time I had the chance to go back to the South of Spain, I had almost lost a desire to go. I didn’t want to be disappointed or to ruin my picture perfect memories of what I considered to be my favorite city in Spain. But after some consideration, I decided a road trip with Napala, Sierra (her friend from the states), and Gregoire (my friend/co-worker/French teacher) through the South of Spain would be the perfect way to re-visit Andalucía. 

Day 1 

We took off in our rental car (another almost new rental car… why do they always give them to young drivers?!?!) from Madrid around 10 AM and headed to Córdoba to see the Mezquita.

I won’t write a novel about the Mezquita since you can read about it here, in my blog entry from 2 years ago. But it was fun to show off all of the Islamic-influenced architecture, something that is unique in the South of Spain and is so different from the majority of churches throughout Europe.

 
Juxtaposition of the Islamic and Renaissance architecture

After our visit to the Mezquita, we explored the streets before enjoying some tea at an Arabic teahouse. I have definitely developed a taste for coffee, but I was quite pleased to have such a wide variety of teas to indulge in.
 
Flowers on the walls of a small side street

Cinnamon tea

I hadn’t slept much the nights leading up to the trip since my tutee was about to start finals week and my choreography group needed to get the first recording of our dance piece done. Between leaving dance rehearsals at 12 PM and squeezing in philosophy readings during every free hour at school, I felt like I was in finals week. Nevertheless, the 8 months of waiting to see the streets of my beloved city fueled me with a bit of adrenaline, enough to continue the drive to Sevilla without feeling tired.

Aka... I’m pretty sure Napala was convinced my mouth was stuck with a smile plastered on.

Once we arrived, I didn’t let a moment go to waste before walking along the river, heading to Molly’s and my “secret” bar, and calling up some of my old friends.

The four of us alongside the Guadalquivir

Casa Diego

Fran, Gabri, and I hanging out almost 2 and a half years later!

Day 2

Our second day in Sevilla consisted of hours walking around the city. It didn’t seem like much to me but after googling a few distances, Sierra and Napala estimated that I made them walk upwards of 10 miles (not kilometers… MILES) throughout the day. Again, I blame adrenaline.

Some highlights were: checking out the ceramics in Triana, stopping by my old apartment building and literally just ringing the different apartments until Margarita answered the door, walking around Plaza de España, exploring the Álcazar, stopping by a young flamenco singer’s showcase, accompanying Napala to her first show of flamenco dance, and seeing the new sculpture (I guess that’s what you’d call it?) downtown.

At “Madrid” in Plaza de España… since Madrid was the only city that had a puente, there seemed to always be a group of people crowded around this spot for a picture.

Giant setas (mushrooms) in downtown Sevilla

The sightseeing was rather calm for me since I didn’t feel like I had to take any pictures. I already had all of the pictures I wanted of Córdoba and Sevilla so I passed off my camera to Napala, letting her try her hand at being the trip’s official photographer. I just let myself fall back into the memories of the walks that were so oddly familiar.

As for Margarita, it was a wonderful surprise to see her. She hadn’t seen the facebook message I sent her but with the encouragement of Gabri and Fran, I ignored my worries that it would be rude to show up at her house unannounced. We chatted for about 15 minutes while she finished polishing her winter shoes and then made plans to have lunch when I return to Sevilla with Jackie in July. It’s bizarre how natural it felt to be back in that apartment, back in a place I considered home for a time. 

 Margarita, me, and Mom in November of 2010!
(Excuse our hair, it was very rainy that day...)

Day 3

On our 3rd day of our road trip, we headed off to Málaga, the city where one of Napala's and my good friends studied abroad. The day was very relaxing, as days often are when you are in a beach town of any sort.

Walking along the port in Málaga

“Malagueta” is the neighborhood in Málaga where this beach is

Check out how blue and clear this water is!

After dinner, Gregoire caught a bus back to Madrid and us three girls headed to bed early to prepare for our next adventure. (This was quite handy since my adrenaline rush had officially ended and I was feeling quite exhausted.)

Day 4

If I haven’t mentioned it before, now would be a good time to mention that Napala is obsessed with pinterest. This is how we decided upon an afternoon trip to Nerja. The fact that many Spaniards hadn’t heard about it seemed like a good thing… we thought it must be a hidden gem that only we were lucky enough to find.

In photos, Nerja is absolutely gorgeous:
Gotta love the mountains along the Mediterranean Sea

Who doesn’t like a few palm trees lining their sidewalk?

The view from our terrace restaurant

Yep, Nerja is prime pinterest material. The pictures look like they came out of a vacation brochure book and… they probably did. Because pretty much everybody there was on vacation from the United States.

After lunch (at an Italian restaurant... literally every restaurant was Italian... weren't we in Spain?!), Napala and Sierra sipped on U.S. sized hot chocolates and we discussed the odd town we were in. I couldn't help but think of the people visiting who would go home and tell their friends and families about Spain. Yes, it's beautiful (as many cities in Spain are), but the odd resort town tiene nada que ver (is nothing like) the rest of this amazing country. It was bizarre and fake and frankly, I would never recommend it to anyone. But to each his own I suppose.

Luckily, we could hope back in our car and drive along la Carretera del Mediterráneo (a highway that has a view of the Mediterranean the majority of the drive) back to Málaga to continue our adventure. And that we did.

View from the Moorish castle

Local cheese plate for dinner

I scream, you scream, we all scream for helado!

 The church at night
 
Day 5

On our last day of adventure, we hit up a juice bar and then packed up the car to head to Granada. In Granada we perused the tea shops (I bought a delicious red cinnamon tea), we enjoyed some free tapas, and then I hit up an Arabic tea room while Napala and Sierra went to the Generalife. Since I had already been to the Alhambra and Generalife twice in the past few years (read about it here), I decided it was better I relax for the drive and get myself prepared for Monday's classes. Good thing too, because on our way home (a 5 hour drive that included waving at the people who were stationed at every single bridge we passed... they were out supporting a massive motorcycle ralley) we got ourselves into a sticky situation.

Literally. Sticky.

This is where I admit that I was not at my finest and that Sierra and Napala are awesome. Because when we found gum rubbed into the seat and we had to find some way to fix it to avoid the minimum 100 euro special cleaning fee, I was not exactly a ray of sunshine.

After discussing our options with the Hertz agent, we made a plan to have someone clean it professionally the next morning and then return it to Hertz by 10 AM. But we're living in Spain, where things often don't open by 10 AM (and certinaly weren't still open at 10 PM on Sunday night), let alone complete orders with enough time to get the car halfway across the city by 10 AM. Awesome.

Thankfully, vinegar works miracles, my neighborhood has free (and safe!) parking on the streets overnight, and my classes started late enough on Monday morning that I could get the car back on time and still make it to my first class. It seems a lot simpler written in a few blog sentences but the multiple ice attempts, confusing rush hour roundabouts, and lack of patience on my part after so many hours of driving did not make the situation a fun experience. 

Moral of the story? Traveling is character building, my friends.
 
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Although the stories are interesting, I’m sure you’re thinking, “How was it to be back?” To be honest, I’m not quite sure. I was delighted to go back to Casa Diego, la Repositería Asunción (although they didn’t have my favorite chocolate triangle croissant-type thing), and my old apartment. I was delighted to see Gabri, Fran, and Margarita. But it wasn’t a simple delight.

Gabri and Fran said to me, "I don’t remember you like this." They were focusing on my language abilities, but in so many ways I’m not the same girl that first walked the streets of Sevilla. I’m not an ignorant, naïve young woman anymore. (Okay, maybe I still am in some ways, but not quite as much….) I don’t only have questions about Spain; I have ideas and experiences to share. I’m not waiting to finish studying so that I can start my future; I’m living my future and embracing learning as part of the rest of my life.

I’m not the same girl that Gabri and Fran once knew, but I am the girl they met on that Wednesday night because of the experiences I had during my semester abroad. The semester was an incredibly formative experience in my life and they are part of the reason that I even know how to open myself up to people of different cultures.

When I e-mailed Professor Woolsey about my renewal with Fulbright for the coming year, he wrote back joking, “I seem to remember a conversation way back when with a very conflicted young lady who wasn’t sure if she wanted to continue in Math (was it Math?) or go out on a limb and do Spanish….”

I responded with, “I vividly remember those beginning semesters of college, trying to decide if I was willing to give up my plan to get a chemistry degree. I was convinced chemistry would lead me to the “ideal” career of medicine and I wasn’t sure if Spanish would lead to a very fulfilling career. Boy was I wrong. It’s a good thing we aren’t permitted to settle for the 19 year-old versions of ourselves!”

I am glad to say that I am not the same as my 19-year old self who was following the pre-med track, or my 20-year old self who first explored living in another country. New experiences are constantly changing my worldview and allowing me to connect with people differently. I am not the same girl I used to be, but those past selves are what made me into who I am today.

When Sierra asked me the other day what my favorite city in Europe is, I answered quickly and easily, “Sevilla.” It was easy to fall in love with the city again, all it took was a walk in the Parque de María Luisa or a glimpse of the Guadalquivir at sunset. Sevilla has a place in my heart that is incomparable to any other city I will pass through because it gave me a whole new sense of what home could feel like. But it's not easy to think about because it didn’t last forever. It's a memory in the same way that Madrid will be a memory for me in my future and that's a rather emotionally taxing topic to think about for too long. However, I'm starting to think that sometimes it’s the brevity of experiences that make them so beautiful.