The Romanticists of the 19th century focused on this exoticism, using their feelings to create an archetype that ignored facts, dates, or an objective point of view. They allowed themselves to be absorbed by the exotic, talking about the countless attractions, but all the while "knowing" that the culture was inferior.
I have to admit am having a very difficult time interpreting my experience this past weekend in Morocco. I had expected the trip to be exotic, in the Merrium-Webster definition of the word: strikingly, excitingly, or mysteriously different or unusual. What I found however, was that my feelings got involved and I was unable to keep myself from getting pulled into the double impulse of attraction and repulsion.
Attraction.
Who doesn't want to set their facebook status to something along the lines of Amber Rogers is off to Africa for the weekend? That kind of status screams countless 'likes' from friends at Hope and other CIEE students. Morocco is different than anything I've ever seen and I was able to experience it in a safe environment: a group of 30 people led by a Moroccan tour guide. I knew the cities weren't safe for a 20-year-old American college student alone, but I didn't have to worry because I was being led on a tried-and-true itinerary to markets, pharmacies, and tapestry workshops to hit all the tourist elements of Northern Morocco. Here's a brief recap:
Saturday we explored Tetuan (we traveled into the city Friday), a city founded primarily by those who were expelled from Al-Andalus during the Reconquest.
We walked through the Medina (the old section of the city - another World Heritage Site!) and saw the markets of fresh food and artisans everywhere. The smells were the most intense I have ever smelled. Every few steps it would completely change: spices to fish, fish to chicken, chicken to bread, bread to leather, leather to sweets... it was unbelievable. However, Molly and I were strictly warned beforehand by our señoras not to eat anything from the markets for fear of getting sick. Probably for the best or I may have eaten so much I definitely would've been sick.
One of a bagillion food stands.
In one of the markets they dressed a few girls up in the traditional clothing.Then we continued into the newer part of the city, where we saw the exterior of the King's palace. This isn't the main palace but he has one in every main city in the country.
The King's palace in Tetuan.Next we went to a holistic pharmacy where they told us about their remedies for colds, upset stomachs, scars and even snoring...
He gave us the explanation in English, Spanish, French, and German. Apparently its normal to speak at least four languages.And don't worry, we ATE. And it was all accompanied with Coca-Cola since we couldn't drink the water. I'm sure you can imagine how upset Molly and I were.
Massive pot of vegetables and beef cooked with a delicious sauce that included cinnamon.
Salad plate of potatoes, tomatoes, sweet potatoes, olives and rice/corn mixture.We then went for a scenic bus ride (one of many - and might I add that the roads were very windy?) that took us to the Caves of Hercules and the Cape of Espartel... where I got to ride a camel!
Molly and I insisted on riding at different times so we could be each other's photographers. We don't trust too many others with our DSLRs :)And that was just Saturday. Sunday we woke up at 6 AM and continued onto Chefchauoan, a typical mountain city which is known for being painted all shades of blue.
One of many blue side streets.
Our cute old tour guide who kept coming up and talking to me about how I didn't need my water bottle because the water is safe to drink. Okayyyy...
One of many blue side streets.
Our cute old tour guide who kept coming up and talking to me about how I didn't need my water bottle because the water is safe to drink. Okayyyy...In the afternoon we headed back to Ceuta to catch our swanky ferry back to Gibraltar. How did we end up in Gibraltar again? I have nooo idea.
View from the bus
View from the busRepulsion.
In less than 72 hours I traveled to 3 different Moroccan cities. It was a whirlwind of a weekend. We spent many hours on the bus and our tour guide decided to "educate" us along the way about the Moroccan culture.
Here are some tidbits of "information". I wish I could say I got it confused but I heard it twice, in English and Spanish...
- Women can wear the head covering and traditional clothing if they want or they can wear more modern clothing. Islam is about personal choice. However, if a woman's husband decides he wants her to wear the head covering or traditional clothing, she must because it says in the Koran that women must obey their husbands or they will go to hell.
- Women are not allowed to wear make-up when they go out in the street to go shopping or visit a friend. However, the husband will call her on his way home and she must put on make-up and change into a sexy dress to open the door for him when he comes home. A bikini is optional, but is normally nice.
- Men must pay a dowry for women when they get married. Its normally a lot of money but men try to get a strong woman because then the dishwasher is included. (There was also a reference in here to the women having the responsibility to keep their husbands warm... among other methods, this included waking up before everyone else to build a fire.)
- It says in the Koran that men are in charge of women.
Livid might be an understatement. I'm pretty sure this guy thought he was funny. And the worst part: people on the bus were laughing. While he claimed to be Muslim, he severely confused his machismo culture with the texts of Islam's holy book. He told us, "Don't worry, I'm not talking about European women or American women. Just our women." But his behavior was not appropriate for anyone, in any setting. He degraded women ("Okay bye, I'm going home to my slut now.") and religion, filling the minds of the people on our trip with lies but at the same time giving us a glimpse of their reality.
In Morocco they stamped my passport on the page with the following quote:
"The cause of freedom is not the cause of a race or a sect, a party or a class - it is the cause of humankind, the very birthright of humanity."
- Anna Julia Cooper
Women are not second class citizens. We are just as smart and contribute just as much to society as men. You would think the fact that women are the ones that give birth to the future society would give them more worth. But in these extremely machismo societies women are pushed to the background, a blur behind the power of the man.
As much as I wanted to love Morocco and be as excited as the other kids when I got back from my weekend from Africa, I couldn't help but be overjoyed to be back in Sevilla. Because although Spain is far from perfect as far as equality between genders goes, at least I can be independent here. For me, the double impulse is real. The newness of a different culture is intriguing and interesting, but I do hold the western culture as superior. The advancement of culture into having freedom as a birthright of humanity is superior. We were not meant to divide ourselves into groups and distribute rights according to labels. I am proud to say I am a citizen of the United States, a country that was founded on the belief (whether its being lived out or not) that all men are created equal. I pray that in the future this culture will learn justice and value each and every human being as an important element of society.
In less than 72 hours I traveled to 3 different Moroccan cities. It was a whirlwind of a weekend. We spent many hours on the bus and our tour guide decided to "educate" us along the way about the Moroccan culture.
Here are some tidbits of "information". I wish I could say I got it confused but I heard it twice, in English and Spanish...
- Women can wear the head covering and traditional clothing if they want or they can wear more modern clothing. Islam is about personal choice. However, if a woman's husband decides he wants her to wear the head covering or traditional clothing, she must because it says in the Koran that women must obey their husbands or they will go to hell.
- Women are not allowed to wear make-up when they go out in the street to go shopping or visit a friend. However, the husband will call her on his way home and she must put on make-up and change into a sexy dress to open the door for him when he comes home. A bikini is optional, but is normally nice.
- Men must pay a dowry for women when they get married. Its normally a lot of money but men try to get a strong woman because then the dishwasher is included. (There was also a reference in here to the women having the responsibility to keep their husbands warm... among other methods, this included waking up before everyone else to build a fire.)
- It says in the Koran that men are in charge of women.
Livid might be an understatement. I'm pretty sure this guy thought he was funny. And the worst part: people on the bus were laughing. While he claimed to be Muslim, he severely confused his machismo culture with the texts of Islam's holy book. He told us, "Don't worry, I'm not talking about European women or American women. Just our women." But his behavior was not appropriate for anyone, in any setting. He degraded women ("Okay bye, I'm going home to my slut now.") and religion, filling the minds of the people on our trip with lies but at the same time giving us a glimpse of their reality.
In Morocco they stamped my passport on the page with the following quote:
"The cause of freedom is not the cause of a race or a sect, a party or a class - it is the cause of humankind, the very birthright of humanity."
- Anna Julia Cooper
Women are not second class citizens. We are just as smart and contribute just as much to society as men. You would think the fact that women are the ones that give birth to the future society would give them more worth. But in these extremely machismo societies women are pushed to the background, a blur behind the power of the man.
As much as I wanted to love Morocco and be as excited as the other kids when I got back from my weekend from Africa, I couldn't help but be overjoyed to be back in Sevilla. Because although Spain is far from perfect as far as equality between genders goes, at least I can be independent here. For me, the double impulse is real. The newness of a different culture is intriguing and interesting, but I do hold the western culture as superior. The advancement of culture into having freedom as a birthright of humanity is superior. We were not meant to divide ourselves into groups and distribute rights according to labels. I am proud to say I am a citizen of the United States, a country that was founded on the belief (whether its being lived out or not) that all men are created equal. I pray that in the future this culture will learn justice and value each and every human being as an important element of society.
2 comments:
love it.
Hey Amber, what an experience in a few short days. Just a reminder from a fellow traveler. Our experiences are shaped by those with whom we have contact in our brief forays into other cultures. To understand culture and the meaning of behaviors takes much more time than we have to spend generally. Especially with tour guides as they know how to play to their audiences and most western audiences would have thought him to be very clever!
What an adventure! Enjoy having your Mom these soon!
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